Day 15 Sapphire Lake in Evolution Basin to Aspen Meadow on Piute Creek.
It’s still too cold to venture out into the stone cold morning. I’m snuggled in my bag, eating breakfast and choking down my Starbucks Via French Roast. (Instant coffee is good for about a week, then it’s very very bad – what I wouldn’t do for a cup of Peet’s French Roast right now!).
I got to Sapphire Lake late yesterday afternoon and decided to make it home for the night. (I get to camp in Evolution Basin!!!- I’m actually here!). I hiked the half mile or so along the lake searching for my perfect site. Everything to the right (east) was too close to the trail and/or the water so I had to climb up the rocky hills on the west. I found the perfect spot at the base of The Hermit, high enough to give me a muted smoky view of the lake, and the dramatic peaks of Mts. Huxley and Warlow directly to the southeast of me. Another perfectly picturesque camp on the John Muir Trail!
There’s just one other solo backpacker on the far south end of Sapphire Lake. His camp rests between two pools of water- it looks gorgeous, but too close to the water for me. I like my perch –above the lake resting in the now-familiar rocky terrain of SEKI Wilderness. I feel at home in the rocks with unobstructed views and dramatic ruggedness that speaks ‘earth’ and ‘wilderness’ to me.
The chill set in early last night. As soon as I got to camp I put on my Merino Smart Wool base layer (lightweight: I wish I’d gotten medium-weight, at least) my tank top, down jacket and beanie – and I was still chilled to the bone. I headed down the hill from camp to the edge of the frigid Sapphire Lake, which wasn’t able to live up to its name under the heavy burden of smoke-gray skies. I plunged my hands into the icy-cold outlet creek and splashed water on my face in a vain attempt to wash the day’s dirt and grime away. Next I filled my Nalgene, challenging myself not to fall in and soak the only clothes I have to keep me warm. I rinsed my hiking pants and shirt, which I instantly regretted as my hands turned numb trying to wring them out. Despite the dull smoke corrupting the views, it was amazing. I was surrounded by stark jagged mountains piercing the sky, a peaceful lake and the outlet creek gently running north into the valley. It was all I’d imagined it to be
Back at camp I made tea and soaked my dinner of curried chickpeas and sweet potatoes, found a rock to lean against and watched the sun lazily seep away, painting the mountains in hues of amber and red.
As soon I finished dinner before darkness even had a chance to steal the sky, I retreated to the warmth of my sleeping bag and tent. I knew it was going to be a miserable, cold night. I remembered reading somewhere that fat gets your metabolism working and warms you up, so I choked down a packet of (not very good) olive oil. I’m not sure how much it helped, because I still froze my ass off.
I’m wishing I’d brought heavier base layers. It’s September now, the weather very well could have turned, and every night might be below thirty. That would be miserable. My 24 degree down bag and lightweight wool aren’t enough – I’m not sure I can handle two more weeks of this level of cold.
I also wish I’d brought a cone filter and Peet’s coffee. OMG, I can barely choke this instant crap down…. what happened? I used to think it was pretty good for instant!
Ok, I need to think about getting a move on, the sun is almost cresting the eastern peak and camp should be flooded with warmth any minute (please, please, please). The plan is to get as close to Muir Trail Ranch (MTR) as possible for my resupply tomorrow (Yay, resupply!!! – Booo, heavy pack…). It’s about 15 miles and they close at 5, so there’s no way I’ll make it today. It’ll be best to get there in the morning. Besides I heard the hike out over Sallie Keys is long, hot and miserable and best done early before it gets too hot.
The Guthook app says the last camping spot is about 3 miles before MTR, but trail rumor has it that there is camping closer, where the San Joaquin river meets up with the cutoff trail about ½ mile away. I may try my luck depending on the terrain.
Lunchbreak: McClure Meadow @ Evolution Creek
I must be near an easy entry point, there are casual hikers and their disgusting toilet paper piles everywhere. It infuriates me. What makes them think they can come into MY wilderness and leave their garbage all over MY trail? That’s how I feel. When you spend more than a few days hiking, you begin to feel like the wilderness is your backyard and it infuriates me that people come in here and disrespect it. In what universe is it OK to leave used toilet paper everywhere for the world to see? Grrrr… I want to find out where they live and go poop and pee all over their yard, leaving my TP behind. See how they like it!
I’m sitting on the edge of the Evolution River absorbing the warmth of the sun, soaking my feet and nibbling on trail mix, dried mango and a GoMacro Cashew bar. The cool water feels good on my swollen achy feet. I passed a cowboy resting his mules in a large camp and groups of day-hikers relaxing and sunbathing on the warm rocks that, in the spring are covered with snow melt. I know they aren’t backpackers because they have real towels – giant, fluffy, clean towels – ohhh a real towel. Soft and warm right out of the dryer… Sigh, the luxuries of life that I miss… If I had a towel, maybe the whole back of my lower body wouldn’t be chapped from not drying off enough.
I’ve decided that the collective trail name for day hikers is “Shiny Happy People” (or SHP, for short). They happily bounce along the trail with their dainty little day-packs and ultra-bright clothes looking well rested, well fed and well quaffed. With skin so clean and moisturized that it glows. I mean, it utterly glows!
I ran into a three generation family of SHP (let’s call them the Shiny Happy Jones Family, just for fun!) in their brand-spanking-new fluorescent pink (for the girls!) and green (for the boys!) breathable hiking shirts and crisp hiking pants, that probably hadn’t even been washed yet. The brightness of their clothes was dulled only by their artificially white teeth (that shade of white just doesn’t exist in nature). After spending fifteen days in dirty, grungy, earthy nature, they looked ridiculously out of place- I’m serious, their teeth were blinding me. I had to put my sunglasses on to talk to them – and I never wear sunglasses!
All day I had to deal with SHP who enthusiastically scampered along the trail with huge unfatigued, un-trail-weary, artificially-white smiles painted on their dirt-free faces, stopping for brief moments to exchange pleasantries with me; like spectators at a wild animal exhibit at the zoo. Seriously, it was more brutal than climbing Glen Pass!
The conversations usually went something like this:
SHP: “Where ya headed?”
SHP: “Yosemite!?! Wow, that’s far! Where’d ya come from?”
Me: “Cottonwood Pass, 22 miles south of Mt. Whitney.”
SHP: “Have ya seen any bears?”
SHP: Showing obvious disappointment that I hadn’t had a life-threatening encounter with a wild beast to entertain them with, they’d flatly reply, “Oh. Well, have a great trip!”And with a flash of their blindingly-white smile, they’d bounce off into the woods like a clueless fawn.
About five minutes after my encounter with the Shiny Happy Jones Family (they were either Smiths or Joneses, I guarantee it!), while my pupils were still trying to undilate from their blinding brightness, I nearly stopped dead in my tracks with a thought: Shit!!! Shit, shit, shit. Why didn’t I realize this sooner? I’d passed a mule caravan about a mile back – why didn’t I realize the Shiny Happy Jones family was with that caravan?? Already hating the day hikers for invading my space with their blinding smiles and clothes, perfumey soap and dirty toilet paper, this gave me one more reason to despise them: Fuckers can’t even carry their own gear!
And I mentally kicked myself for not thinking on my feet. Dammit, if only I’d put two and two together sooner! A retrospective sinister plot began to tale hold in my brain…THIS is the conversation I would have had:
SHP: “Where ya headed?”
SHP: “Yosemite!?! Wow, that’s far! Good for you! Where’d ya come from?”
Me: “Cottonwood Pass, 22 miles south of Mt. Whitney.”
SHP: “Have ya seen any bears?”
Me: “Nope, but watch out for that pack of wild coyotes about a mile back.”
SHP: “Coyotes? REALLY?”
Me: “Yep, there was a pack of at least 15 barbarous coyotes back there feasting on a mule! I saw it charge out of the forest and take down a pack mule in a split second and then drag it off the trail and just start feasting on it, not more than ten feet away. It was gruesome! They ripped right through the gear and flesh like it was nothing!”
SHP: “Gear? The mule had supplies on it???”
Me: “Yeah, pretty sure the supplies are history, I wouldn’t go near those coyotes, they were scary! You should have seen them tearing that poor mule limb by limb. I’ve never seen anything like it. I thought they’d come for me next so I practically ran the last mile. You better be careful out there! Happy Trails!”
I amused myself for several miles over my missed opportunity to have some fun with the SHP. OMG it would have been hilarious. I bet that would have taken the pep right out of their step! Hee, hee. This is what two weeks without proper nutrition and sleep will do to you!
5:30 camped on Piute Creek, about 3 miles from Muir Trail Ranch
I’m a few yards off the trail in the woods. I don’t like the woods. They still scare me a little. There are too many shadows and the possibility of things lurking that I can’t see. But it was either this or collapse right on the trail. After twelve tough miles, I’m done!
Oh – and I have officially banned the phrase ‘easy day’ from my vocabulary – forever and ever. Really, I mean it this time! It was twelve miles of a lot of not-so-easy downhill. I have never had so many different parts of my body hurt all at once… seriously I could list what doesn’t hurt much easier than what does! I’ve been pushing hard for the last five days. It’s time for another rest day.
I passed several backpackers today who ranted about how wonderful MTR is if you stay there. Apparently there have been a lot of cancellations because of the fires and rooms are easy to get. The backpackers looked so clean and rested (backpacker clean – NOT SHP clean!). They said it exceeded their expectations: the food is delicious and fresh, there are nice hot showers (oooh, a shower… *sigh*), laundry and private hot springs for guests. They talked me into it. If there are vacancies I’m going to splurge! I could use a little R&R – and a giant fresh salad (they said the salads are amazing)! And shampoo! And a hot shower! I’m sick of smelling myself, clean will be nice.
My fingers are crossed they will have an opening, I can’t think of anything else! Hiking down those endless switchbacks from McClure Meadow to Evolution Valley, I was obsessed with it!
My site is cozy, surrounded by aspens. Only about 8000’ feet so it’s a lot warmer! No rainfly so I can see any wild beast lurking in the thick forest (I know that makes no sense- like I’d be able to stop it from lunging at me and making me dinner!). Anyway, I’m hoping its warmer tonight and the patch of sand my tent is on is soft enough to cushion my aching bones against the ground. I’m hoping for a rare good night’s sleep. I want to get up early and hightail the three miles to MTR before they sell out of cabins! I’ll be dreaming of salad and hot showers!
20 comments on “Shiny Happy People and the Gifts They Leave Behind”
Hi Carolyne, I found your blog after following you on your Alaska journey and needed to learn more about you. I have always been adventuresome and have just recently retired and bought a mini school bus which i am traveling in 6 mths of the year here in Canada. I once had the pleasure of doing a 19 day canoeing and portaging journey in northern Ontario’s Algonquin park. It is an experience that i get to relive thro some of your writing, (which is very excellent to read by the way . I was saddened by the loss of Capone and can relate as I also had lost my Rotti pal of 11 years and can deeply relate to missing part of you. hope your journeys this year are still inspiring you and I look forward to the book…
Great information and please keep sharing because it’s worth it
We recently got back from our JMT part 2. I have been following you waiting to see where we crossed on the JMT from last year. Your last post(before we hit the trail again) was just after weird guy on the golden staircase. So when we were alogging down hill fromMuir Pass I kept thinking ” wow there is going to be a lot of cursing on your next post cause there is no way I would want to go NOBO on Muir Pass. You must have glided over or the SHP just over took all that pain. Can’t wait till next post cause pretty sure we wee at MTR with u last year. And side note Peet’s is the best hands down!
By the way this years trip I met 2 people on the trail who read your blog and couldn’t wait to hear the next one. Plus they said they were seeing what u saw and then laughing at times instead of crying up those passes
This is going to sound odd, but what were you wearing your hike last year? I remember a woman and her husband that I talked to for a few minutes right around MTR and she was wearing, I think a pink or green hiking skirt. I didn’t meet or talk to anyone at MTR, it was a very strange place for me. More on that in my next blog..
Your comment made my jaw drop.. People are talking about my blog on the trail? Are you kidding me? That is the coolest thing ever! Oh my gosh, I have dreamed of being a writer since I was a little girl and that just made my whole year. And to know that remembering my stories (of misery) helped make their tough days a little brighter is icing on the cake. WOW!!! Thank you so much!
Muir Pass was pretty brutal, but by then, I was kind of used to brutal and I was conditioned a little better, so there wasn’t quite as much swearing. It did seem to go on forever, but that amazingly serene moment I had at Wanda Lake kind of washed it all away. 🙂
I’d love to know if/when we passed one another. And congrats to you for completing the trail!! Wahoo! That’s exciting and amazing. How was it out there this year? How was Whitney? Did you swear like a sailor like I did? 🙂
Thank you Karen for the very kind comment. I appreciate you hanging in there and continuing to read (I know it’s taking me forever!). Happy trails and welcome back!
My journey was from Gibraltar to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It was a long walk but no where as difficult or challenging as yours. My backpack was on only 10 kilos. I have huge respect for you and your achievement and I love your ability to articulate it so graphically. You make it seem like I’m actually there. I’m looking forward to your next chapter with enthusiasm.
Brian, Is that part of the Camino De Santiago? I have friends who just finished that a couple days ago. It looked Amazing! What did you think? Would you recommend it? Seeing their posts and pics made me want to do it! It looks like a wonderful experience. Congratulations to you on your accomplishment. I’m sure it was no easy feat, even with just 10 kilos on your back!
And I appreciate you sharing your thoughts. It’s such an honor and a pleasure to receive so much encouragement and support. I thank you! – Carolyn
I so look forward to each installment! I get angry also at the ignorance of SHP who leave ANY type of trash behind. Like leaving it under a rock somehow makes it ok.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Rhea – Oh my gosh, it’s insane!!! How can they disrespect our Mother Earth (and each other) in such a way? I know it’s just ignorance.. and I hope that by sharing my anger, it can change some bad behavior. Thank you for continuing to read and leave your thoughts! Happy Trails! – Carolyn
Again,, another interesting episode. I cannot wait to see how the MTR is and whether you secure a room. Thanks for posting.
Marilyn – Thank you!!! MTR blog is coming soon!! Happy trails! – Carolyn
SHP! So glad you characterized these thoughts for us (the JMT community). I believe you can tell a thru-JMTer from a day-JMTer within about 10 seconds of meeting them. If you are struggling, you can always do the smell test. The “day” variety always smell “good.” I believe the true source of our frustration with day hikers is that they don’t seem to comprehend the significant undertaking in planning our thru hike requires. We have been pouring over maps, spreadsheets, lists, gear, shuttles, resupplies, etc. for months and months. They seemingly decided a week ago to “go for a hike”. It is not their fault or a problem (other than the lack of LNT principles that some have) per say, more of sense that: this is “MY” Trail and My Land, and My People; you (day hiker) are not really My people and you are kind of trespassing on “My” Land…. and your lack of awareness (ignorance in some cases) irritates me.
Also- love the “no more easy days” talk. Wife and I made the same mistake many times during the first half of our NOBO hike. We stopped saying that about day 8 or 9. We learned toward the end that the words “Pretty much all down hill from here” start coming out about Donahue Pass. Ya, not so much! There is always another uphill.
Jason, Oh my gosh- yes, the “it’s all downhill from here…” that made me so mad. It most definitely is NOT all downhill. lol.
You captured my feelings about day and casual hikers perfectly. I do accept somewhere along the trip, that I had become a thru-hiking snob. I may have cut it out, because it started around Kearsarge.. but after those few days I had I felt like I’d earned my snob badge -and I wore it with honor! You’re right, though, the casual hiker can’t possible understand what it means to thru-hike the JMTe- just like I will never be able to understand what it’s like to do the entire PCT or AT. And they look down on us the way we look down on the day-hikers, so it’s all relative, I suppose.
Anyway, glad you -and fellow JMTers ‘get’ me when I rant like this.
Thanks for the comment and for continuing to follow my journey. Happy Trails.. Carolyn
Thanks for sharing this. Well done. SHPS: Love it! I can smell both men and women SHPs a mile away from the deodorants. Bear bait.
“fluorescent pink and green breathable hiking shirts”: Bright colors are so inappropriate in the wilderness. One very prominent FB poster on the JMT Group defended her fluorescent pinks that it was the only thing that made her feel like a girl even though she was dirty. Ken and Barbie conditioning. I hike the wilderness to escape this BS. Give me earth tone colored hiking clothes or give me nothing at all!
Interesting how you use the phrase “home for the night.” I know exactly how that feels. It’s that deep exhale when you are in your tent, full belly, snug in your bag, thinking about the day’s hike and then dosing off into sleep.
At the end of your hike I hope you close the loop on your Peet’s coffee. Tell us how good it is.
Eric, “Ken and Barbie” conditioning – i totally agree and totally get it! I do see one benefit of bright colors – if you get lost you would be easier to spot by helicopter (or a spaceship in some cases). Wearing earth tones and blending in is a sure-fire way to ensure you never get seen. AND from what i’ve seen of most day-hikers, they need all the help they can get!
Ahhh – and ‘home for the night’ – it’s taking on a new meaning in my new life!!! (for those who don’t know what that is, stay tuned, i will be making an announcement when this blog is finished!). But, yes, it’s a wonderful feeling.
Thank you for continuing to read and share your thoughts. I appreciate hearing from you. All the best, Carolyn
Hi Carolyn, commenting from Lenno, Italy! To be found by SAR, I think it is more effective to have a whistle and mirror than florescent colors. The wind screen on my stove can be fashioned into a mirror. For those that can afford it a spot or inreach provide the belts and suspenders approach. Everyone has an opinion, eh?
Italy!! I’m quite envious! I’m ready for a trip abroad! I loved my spot.. worked well for me- and I didn’t blind anyone! 🙂 Thanks for your thoughts! – Carolyn
Love your writing. I’ve spent the day reading your blog. Can’t wait for more to come!!
Michael, What a wonderful comment to read upon logging on this morning. I appreciate your kind words – they really mean a lot. And I’m thrilled you enjoy reading my writing. Thank you! – Carolyn
Just wanted to say that I really appreciate your writing, and look forward to each and every post!
Kathy, Thank you very much! Comments like yours inspire me to keep writing, I’m flattered that you enjoy my stories. Thank you and happy trails! – Carolyn